And so this week’s moment of happiness despite the news.
The Moment is actually this morning. Right now. And it will continue into this afternoon and evening and tomorrow and the next day and some of the next.
I’m on my way to La Crosse, Wisconsin. Oregon is my favorite place ever, of course. But La Crosse is my favorite place in Wisconsin. Basically because of the Mississippi River that runs through it. So I suppose other places where I could be by the big river would work too. But La Crosse is where I spend time by it. Stick my feet in. Listen to it roll.
The sound of the Pacific Ocean. The sound of the Mississippi River. Two completely different sounds, but both soothing to me. I call the Pacific Ms. Pacific. And the Mississippi? She’s always the river, as if there is no other.
La Crosse and the Mississippi also hold memories of the two major relationships in my life. Husbands.
My first marriage, to the first boy I dated in high school, lasted seventeen years. We married between our junior and senior years in college. He was everything my parents wanted for me – or for them — and so I thought he was everything I wanted too, because it made them happy with me. And it did work, for a while. The marriage produced three amazing children, and I can’t imagine my life without them.
As it began to grow more obvious that the marriage was breaking apart, he and I decided to take an extended weekend away, something we hadn’t done since the kids were born, all three within four years. It was an attempt to remember who we were together. The kids were parked with the grandparents, and in a totally random decision, we decided to go to La Crosse.
Oh, that place. The bluffs. The river.
We stayed in a lovely hotel, with a swimming pool surrounded by windows overlooking the river. There was a patio outside, where you could sit and watch the river flow. Across the river, I could see a beach. I so wanted to go there. I wanted to say I put my feet into the Mississippi River.
So we did that, even though he protested that it was a waste of time, that the river was dirty, that I would become ill. We drove over the river and found the beach. I rolled up my pant legs and waded in; he didn’t. He sat on a picnic bench and played with a handheld game. I stood by myself, knee deep, and felt the strength of the river. I asked her – silently, because I didn’t want him to hear, and I didn’t want to be ridiculed – to help me. I asked for some of her strength to seep in, under my skin.
We went on a riverboat cruise ride, again, my idea. He complained about the cost. He sat at a table in the cabin, the windows separating him from the water. I prowled around the deck, wanting to be as close to the river and see as much of it as I could.
That evening, our final evening there, I told him I was going out to sit on the patio. He elected to stay in our room and watch television. It was a chillier night, and I wrapped my jacket around me. I was the only one on the patio. The river looked soft, sounded soft. And I listened.
I thought of him, sitting on the picnic bench on the beach, sitting in the cabin of the boat, staying up in our room, while I experienced things on my own. I thought, We are already so far apart.
The marriage didn’t survive. We separated, then divorced.
After our first court hearing, we stood outside the courthouse for a bit. I was miserable. I missed my kids. We’d agreed to joint custody, so suddenly, I was without my children for half of every week. I felt like I was being torn apart. Standing in that parking lot, I began to cry.
“If I’d known how hard it was going to be to leave you,” I said, “I never would have done it.”
Part of me hoped he would open his arms and tell me to come home.
Instead, he said words that were close to the most painful of my life.
“Really?” he said. “If I’d known how easy it was going to be to leave you, I would have done it a lot sooner.”
And he left me there.
Years later, I returned to La Crosse and to the Mississippi. I visited two book clubs, who wanted to talk to me about my newly released novel. I was teaching by then too and I was going to teach a class on the creative process and walking a labyrinth. Accompanying me was my second husband, Michael.
While we were there, we found the beach. It’s at Pettibone Park. I rolled up my pants legs and waded in, and beside me, Michael did the same. He held my hand as we stood in the water, letting her roll all around us. I felt her strength again. I’d found it. And I felt his too.
We took a boat cruise on the same boat. Michael leaned on the railings with me, and we watched the river.
I also went to the river on my own. When I told Michael I needed some time with the river by myself, he didn’t ridicule me. He kissed me, gave me a hug, told me to be careful. He’d be waiting for me, he said.
I returned to Pettibone Park and waded into the water. Across the river was the hotel where I’d stayed with my first husband. I looked at it for a while. Then, out loud, not caring who heard me, I said thank you to the river. I returned to the hotel where Michael waited. For me.
So I’m going back there again today, and I’m staying until Sunday. I’m going on the boat cruise and I’m meeting friends to celebrate my 65th birthday. It’s my second birthday without Michael.
But this afternoon, after I unpack in my hotel room, I will carry the book I’m currently reading out to the car. I’ll stop at Starbucks and get my favorite drink. Then I’ll drive to Pettibone Park. For a while, I’ll sit at the picnic bench and read my book and drink my drink, looking up after every page or so to admire the river. Then I’ll roll up my pant legs and wade in.
I’ll be alone. But not really. The river will help me remember, and I’ll thank her for always rolling me toward the good memories, not the bad.
Wherever Michael is, I know he’ll wait for me.
And yes, that helps. Despite. Anyway.





































